Sunday, April 29, 2007

À Bientôt

Of course I miss Paris.

Not for the obvious reasons of beautiful weather, wondrously delectable food, gorgeous avenues, and an intangible joie de vivre. Instead, I miss the people: the hypomanic goal-directed Ethiopian-French lawyers and their dazzling Air France stewardess sisters, the West African-born East Arfican-raised Heinz representatives, the Abu Dhabi interior designers, and even the GI Jehovah-Catholic proselytizers. Especially, I’ll miss hanging out with surly, infectious, Jewish-Ethiopians and witty, ebullient Asiastani Dubai natives. The former I can hardly imagine a daily life without (she’s on her way to Chicago) and the latter I hardly had a chance to explore (he’s a migrant soul in London).

More so because we’ve just sent her off. After a cozy evening of brie, tomatoes, olives, and wine, we’ve bade our farewells to Ribka. She protests of course that she’s not going that far, and that she will certainly keep up through an elaborate system of text messaging through the next three years. Dubious as all of this sounds, we are feeling a bit melancholy. Perhaps its just that the idea that this dream of fourth year is slowly coming to a slow and beautiful end.

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Swimming with the Fishes


“Oohh....what’s uh....what’s that?”

These words, said with a slight air of confusion, fear, and aversion, are usually the first words people utter when they’ve seen my aquarium. It was pretty disgusting. After months of neglect, a tepid, unnaturally virescent one inch (or 2.54cm) of ‘water’ remained in the tank, holding my two surviving African cichlids captive.

A shame.

More so because its so cool. Years ago, before my three day sojourn here to the Lone Star state, I stumbled on an old 1950s television in the basement of our Maryland home. Given my mother’s creative clairvoyance, she’d already taken out the cathode-ray tube ages ago. Now it was ready to begin its new life.

As an aquarium.

Given an amazing set of circumstances (the tank was snug, the filter fit, and the light tube was invisible to the casual observer) and my experience as a pimply, fresh and saltwater specialist at Fairfax’s One Stop Pet Shop and Aquarium, the tank looked as amazing. At every party, chai soirée, book swap, casual drop-by, salsa-lesson, or night cap I’d invariably be the recipient of a “Whoa. Nice aquarium.” These words, of course would be scented with Bailey’s, ginger, or Malbec.

In any case, thanks to a glorious several hours of boiling, scraping, and wiping you are now looking at my RCA Radiovision Aquarium back to its former glory. While not on the scale of the Tate Museum, or even Jamiroquai’s last album (they got a new bassist), I still incredibly satisfied with the results.

“Enuaj” and “Teloiv” certainly are.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Brrrrr....


I love recent immigrants. No matter where they are, they always seem to the hardest working individuals in any economy. And especially in France were it is practically de rigueur to be closed, bored, or striking. The other day, we were waiting for Ribka’s friend, Mickey, near the Garre du Nord, the train station that would deliver her ex-college mate fresh from London (thanks again Stanford and Chunnel). Despite him being of the ‘Asiastani’ persuation (and moreover a London resident), we decided on a relatively nearby Indian restaurant, full of the aforementioned.

As expected around any European train station, the neighborhood was a wee bit ‘dodgy.’ But my initial apprehension of the approaching sunset melted when I inhaled the oh-so-familiar smell curry, masalas, and naan. Let’s keep in mind that we are still in baguette and aperitif Paris. So, of course, I spill my requisite polite French to try to order a mint tea (as I had the unfortunate habit of doing so) with the South Indian waiter with his pen in hand.

With a quick shake of the head, he replied, “Non, monsieur. Nous ne l’avons pas (Sorry sir, we ain’t got it, yo).”

Add a momentarily perplexed countenance, followed a knowing sigh at the prospect of NOT ordering chai at an Indian restaurant. “Do you think they have chai?” I quickly relayed to an amused Ribka. I was clearly off my game.

A clear, “Yes, we have it” came from the waiter to his now excited albeit cognitively maladroit patron. Within moments a delicious ginger chai in a tiny white cup met my lips. “Merci...er....thanks a lot” I stumbled. I clearly hadn’t had a recent situation where the waiter and I spoke the same language natively in a while. It felt great. Especially since I’m a known Indophile. Although terribly confusing to use casual English to a French worker, it was soooooo nice. As a random Black guy I’m not sure he felt the same sort of lingual, and much less likely, cultural relief as myself, but he nonetheless obliged my next request for a mango lassi without further look at the menu.

In short, its so strange to go to Indian restaurant in France. That pesky French here seems nearly as disingenuous as the governments desires to assimilate its immigrants. The language just seems so needlessly formal, especially when ordering 'Poulet' Tikka Masala, or ‘Poulet’ Tandoori. Its perhaps simply that I hadn’t been accustomed to a fluid English conversation.


“[Mickey]! What’s up? I haven’t seen you in forever!” Ribka’s high-octane friend arrives (with equally enjoyable and witty English), to further this dizzying mélange of culture, language, and nations. After some catching up, and howdy-dos. We were off to the subterranean bowels that is the Paris Metro.

An Abu Dhabi-native, ethinically Italian/Ethiopian friend of Ribka (like all of Ribka’s friends apparently) recommended that we try Ice Kube Bar.

As with any place in Paris that is neither student-laden, gay, ethno-centric, or terribly run down, you’ll have to imagine the requisite level of Parisian pretense. After a huge 9 foot gate, manned by a rather well dressed yet surly West African, you enter a giant glass cube, not unexpectedly, in a magnificent small courtyard outside of the boutique hotel. The deal is you pay for 30 minutes in what is essentially a bar made of ice just inside. Wow. The kicker? All the drinks your want. The caveat? All within those precious 30 minutes. The thought of such burgeoned our desires and expectation for a great evening out.

Now, all of us had pretty low levels of European ancestry so our speed of consumption was set accordingly. Absolutely amazing though how even the glasses were made of ice. I took it relatively slow, but I must say, at some point I was teaching the avid students Ribka and Mickey how to properly Electric Slide. This is all while my Asics shoes kept temporarily freezing to the ground. The other Western Europeans, and bartender just smiled in puzzled amusement. Would I do it again? Probably not, but certainly nice to say that I’ve done it.

So, what better way to top off the evening with La Boîte à Frisson, which roughly translates to the shivering club. This is a bit of a misnomer: Its pretty flaming, though we did just come from a bar made of ice to be fair. You see, Ribka and I decided not to drag our Mickey friend to a hetero club in favor of experiencing a (very tame) club ‘of the homo persuation.’ Mickey was delighted. For good reason. The music was actually amazing. I rarely get to hear both decent American rap AND Jamiroquai in the same sitting. After garnering our fair share of attention (we were all matchless dancers as compared to the docile Frenchmen and Frenchmanwomen), we tried out our new Electric Slide moves (as any Black ambassador must), but the French seemed a bit hesitant in joining our melanin trio. Perhaps they were a bit nervous.

Ribka related that someone asked if we were American; as if that would be the only circumstance that a Pakistani, Black guy with locks, and a Jewish/Ethiopian woman could ever reasonably find company with one another. Well actually...perhaps so. That not withstanding, our French spy probably heard our accents as we sang all the Rap/Madonna/old school rock songs. All. Just a thought. Would I do it again? Probably not, but certainly nice to say that I’ve done it.

In any case, an amazing evening, which I tend to have with Ribka (1, 2, 3), to say the least. I'm a big fan of Mickey as well. They both have the sort of energy reserved for those patients I see in Taubnotch Hosp after a painfully positive U Tox. Hopefully we can recreate the aforementioned exercise in another European capital of hedonism another time.

After a short cab ride with a chatty and equally warmhearted Algerian, we found respite in a very satisfying slumber. A job well done.

Non Sequitur


Yeah, I don't get it either. This is a rather random wall tag in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris. If anyone can explain this one, I'm all ears.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

J'adore Paris


“What is it with the American fascination with Paris?”

This was the question posed by Ribka’s college buddy. We’ll call him Mickey. Mickey, an ‘Asiastani,’ Sverige-phile, and exquisitely rare Dubai-native living in London, seemed both disgusted and utterly perplexed, as he read a rather superlative description of the cultural seat of France in our Fodors guide.

For fear of American litigation I’ll paraphrase; Ahem...

“Paris is our modern-day Eden, replete with the finest fruits of humanity. This city is what civilization (and your Visa card) have been waiting for; it is the ultimate expression of how our world, at its heart, should aspire to be. If you haven’t been consider yourself void of any true pleasure, virtue, or capacity for love.”
At least that’s what it said between the lines.

So of course, this begs the question, just as Mickey did, why do American’s adore this city? Granted we aren’t nearly as bad as the Japanese. Rumor has it the Japanese Embassy has set up a hotline for those suicide-pondering Japanese tourists who, having grown up with the media-sponsored nearly delusional belief that Paris should be an indeed perfect heaven on earth, are disappointed beyond words at a very...well...French city. For reals. I can’t claim to know why per se America is so fascinated, but I can offer suitable reasoning for why we shouldn’t be.

Paris is magnificently and elegantly inefficient.

Let’s take the sojourn of Ribka and I through the labyrinth that is the Charles de Gaulle airport. As we parted the doors of the cavernous ticketing counters we were greeted by not one, but two Air France representatives asking for our destination, passports and the like (only to be ushered to an automated check-in kiosk). After discovering that we needed again to interact with another representative at the counter, we decided that the process was unnecessary. As we, still blissfully, arrived at the counter of Air France, the representative briskly typed away and sent our luggage swiftly to wherever they go. Then a pause.
“Euuuh.....(add consternated and nasal Parisian accent here).”
“Yehs. This will be a bit difficult. You arrrrh leaving from gate E83.”
With a rather smooth grace that is truly a French birthright, she began to draw the path to our awaiting plane on a smooth square of paper.
“You see you muhst take tis corrrridohr heerrre and follow the signs to the foyer. Once in te foyer, a bus will take you to the auxiliary gate.”
At this point, I was a bit annoyed with the idea of having to walk so far, but thought little of it. That is until this:
“The bus will take approximately 20 minutes.”
What? The two Americans before her quickly raised eyebrows and exchanged a stare that said, “What about our duty free wine?” We would barely make it to boarding.

So off we went. Our persons, tickets, our hand baggage was inspected, cross-inspected, and practically molested on practically every 10 yards. Glorious inefficiency. We stopped counting at about 13 checks (this actually does not count we actually boarded). Amazing.

Thankfully however, the French system of inefficiency worked in our favor vis-à-vis our duty free shopping. With mere moments to spare before our supposed boarding time, a honey-toned disembodied voiced called over the intercom.
“It is impossible to board at this time, as the plane is currently refueling.”
Obviously, this meant an extra 45 minutes to try our hand at the French wines (another story all together). I suppose the socialist job-creation system combined with an inane government mandated 35-hour work week is responsible. For a person from the United States, where efficiency and economy are always of paramount concern, it can be incredibly frustrated.

That being said of course, it is blissful to have the opportunity to annoyed by France. It makes one feel...how-do-you-say...French. Its any wonder that anything gets done, except for bewitching American tourists.

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Home Again


You'll have to excuse my initial vanity here, but I really do love this picture that my "super-cool" (add nasal Parisian accent here) Ethiopian travel companion took. As we strolled in the Marais neighborhood of Paris, we spotted this lovely nook with appropriately French manicured garden. She apparently is very skilled at taking photos. That aside, I must admit that it is a bit hard coming off of a Paris sojourn to return to Texas.

Let's paint a picture. In a rather cramped, and essentially Parisian, restaurant I was surrounded by bewitching beauty. The delightfully sour smell of enjera, the promising kiss of roasting Ethiopian coffee beans, and of course an incredibly exotic mix of language, culture, and smiles. I was sitting with the various multinational friends of Ribka at a wonderful Ethiopian restaurant named Menelik. Our incredibly sweet friend, Miryam, who went to high school with Ribka in Ethiopia, coordinated a quasi-reunion of Ribka's friends currently residing in Paris.

French, English, and Amharic all raced gracefully across the table of 12. More than certainly, this was all quite dizzying to me as I was just getting a handle on understanding most of the French. It was pleasureable to be frustrated (very similar to my impression of Paris). In any case, conversation flowed about spirituality, film, wealthy Arab design clients, assimilation, and how even the truth can seem ridiculous when in Eastern European customs. Actually for those rare Pakistani national, Dubai native, London residents, the truth can seem absurd.

Vive la France


Well, before I begin relating about the glorious inequities of la Républic Française, I should let all know that I've already posted photos here on my website. Enjoy. I did.

Non Sequitur

Street corner at "2th" Avenue in San Francisco during the SNMA National Conference.
Zooming in the Berkeley Hills with Fellow Morehouse Alumnus Travis Brown in his gorgeous 1970 Porsche.
The view from the Castro Muni stop in San Francisco. It must be a government sponsored beacon.

Je suis très désolé

Okay, okay. I know that I've been absent for a while. And for good reason. So instead of boring your with senseless endless detail, I thought I would provide senseless detail (sans the 'endless' bit). Think if it as buck shot of the mind.

5-12 March

  • Grandma is about this close to becoming Brenham mafia. "Moo Supplements and Smoothies" has a splash of an opening off highway 290.
  • Gevurtztraminer for first time: La Carafe's bartender, I commend you
  • Prayed I pass the MMD final as my motivation had evaporated as quickly as those soon approaching summer afternoon rains: wish granted
13-19 March
  • ~$400; rough estimate of Audrey's birthday dinner. Gratis for me and all but one of 20 others. Payed for with Houston's ears, noses, and throats.
  • Opened envelope that has clearly defined my next 3, 5, or 50 years. Matched at Baylor College of Medicine for Psychiatry. Sorry Yale, maybe next time. Next up? Chief Resident? Blasted American ambition.
  • $38 (27.91 Euros or 1,548.82 Indian Rupees) three longer than comfortable hugs, one consuming glare; amount I garnered at the AMSA Date Auction. Winner will collect prize shortly: chocolatey Black man. We'll ignore the obvious irony of a young verile Black man on sale in America.
20-26 March
  • Average continuous time studying for Step 2CK continued to be 2 hours; I could coast through 5 hours at a time circa 2003. Academic senescence (AKA senioritis)
  • Parked only one block from Rice Hotel for the annual Charity Ball with the lovely Sasha. Her feet were blissful. At least I think so, there was an open wine bar. In any case, I clearly think we were the hottest there. If only I were able to ride home with the top down, it would have been perfect. Although, an askance glance and a huff forbade such things.
  • I love going to the golf range. Yes, left-leaning, anti-elitest, eco-conscious Cecil loves the driving range.
27 March - 2 April
  • Roasted almonds, Cadbury Bunny Eggs, Dried cranberries, 2 Clementines, our Lord and Savior: My sustenance during the 8 hours computerized Step 2CK. Smells like freedom.
  • Dad's birthday Thurs., Mom's birthday Friday: went to Round Top near my parent's ranch Dancing Oaks, and had the most delicious salad I've ever consumed at Chef Pasqual's. The most indelible sun-dried tomato vinaigrette dressing. Thanks Patrick.
  • 5 Bougainvillea and 2 Yellow Roses. Planted and gorgeous
2 - 9 April
  • "Coffee" with Dr. Gabbard turned to tea. Thanks to a silent auction at Charity Ball, I had a whole interrupted hour with America's foremost psychoanalyst discussing film, travel, language, and life.
  • Step 2CS: Why am I here? I already speak medical English
  • San Francisco for Student National Medical Association conference: Stayed with Uncle Butch in the Castro, met up with 3 other good Morehouse buddies, partied hardy
10 - 23 April
  • Paris -the most indifferent, inconvenient, and inefficient cities in the first world. How have they managed to survive their 35 hour work week, lipid-laden meals, and olfactory offenses?