POS - Not just for infertile hairy women anymore.
After a whirlwind tour of the white sand beaches of Tobago (along with their complement of wild chickens) Kevin and I are back in the capital Port of Spain (POS). Apparently the library here is pretty slick with very helpful staff (I borrowed the card of one of the workers for this internet access; many thanks to Kazim). As such, after answering too many emails, I thouht I'd add a quick update.
Crown Point, Scarborough, Speyside, Charlotteville, and Castara Tobago:
1. Apparently the British neglected to take their chickens with them on their colonial departure and now they run wild on the island, hunting small insects and lizards.
2. About two dozen mosquito bites in my 6 days in Tobago; this is despite nearly bathing myself in DEET.
3. The beaches can be wonderfully deserted crescents of white sand "licked by gin-clear waters" (as my wonderfully hyperbolic and etOH-centered guidebook reads)
4. While things in Trinidad are less than efficient, in Tobago time crawls with all the vigor of a gin-drowned snail.
5. The tiny roads hug the mountains revealing gorgeous vistas of sea dripping with tropical forest at its edge. Probably the most beautiful sight I've seen besides my mamma's fried chicken.
Tobago is wonderfully bucolic. Think (very) small town Texas in a tropical setting...then halve its rate. There is something to be said for this however, because the people are uncomfortably genuine and kind. By the end of your first or second day there, chances are everyone knows where you're staying, what you did that day and who you did it with. Conversations (with strangers mind you) typically start, as follows.
Enter tall, gray-hair Tobago stranger to boardwalk.
Tobagoan: "(indescernable) bwahy? En-jyin dah pah-ty (read as the rather calypso-replete albeit staid Fisherman's Festival in Charlotteville?"
Americans: "Oh yeah, the music is great."
Tobagoan: "Dyah enjahy yah time at Pirates Bay?" (We asked someone how to get to it about 6 hours previously)
Americans: "Oh, yeah very quiet and secluded. Its probably the best beach I've been to."
Repeat 3-4 times and include variables of activity, food, or guest house.
As for today in Port of Spain? Kevin and I again frequented the Breakfast shed for more delicious no-nonscence creole/Trinibagoan food. Tonight I'm MOST excited about something I've been dreaming about since 7th grade thanks to our lovely Canadian neighbors (Barbados and St. Lucia émigrés). Mighty Sparrow, just past 70 and undisputed king of calypso is performing tonight at some place called 51 degrees. I can't wait to hear "Both of Dem" "Big Belly Man" and any number of my childhood favorites. The only caveat being of course that there is a dress code to this supposedly dapper establishment. As an American tourist with a too small bag, I've only flipflops, muddy Adidas, and a good faith in karma. We'll see. Worse comes to worse I'll beg. Profusely. I'll keep you updated.







